Rosehip Oil - A Natural Retionol Altenative?

When it comes to skincare, the options can be overwhelming. From retinol to hyaluronic acid, there's a plethora of ingredients promising to give you that 'youthful glow'. Generally these ingredients are synthetically manufactured in a lab, but the plant world offers us natural versions that are more sustainable, gentler and often suitable for even sensitive skin and in a form the skin can can readily utilise.

Retinol

Retinol is an ingredient that is hugely popular in anti-ageing (ooh I hate that term!) and acne skincare products. This is largely due to its ability to increase cell turnover (more on this below), reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and reduce breakouts.      

How it works

• Increases cell turnover: It speeds up the rate at which skin cells are replaced, revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath.
• Boosts collagen production: It stimulates the production of collagen, a protein that builds and supports the skin, which helps keep the skin firm and reduce wrinkles.
• Unclogs pores: It helps to remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, which can prevent them from clogging pores and causing breakouts.

However retinol can be harsh on the skin, especially for those with sensitivities. It often comes with a warning to introduce products containing it slowly into your routine to minimise irritation and it’s absolutely crucial to wear sunscreen, as it makes skin more vulnerable to damage from UV rays.

It’s this rapid acceleration of cell turnover that can cause dryness, peeling, and redness. It exposes the juicy plump cells underneath the surface which makes the skin look plumper, fresher and glowier (is that word?) but at what cost?

Over time, excessive or forced rapid turnover of cells causes the skin to produce thinner, weaker cells, more prone to lines with lower resistance to infection. Barrier function is impaired, the young cells that are exposed aren't yet capable of providing the barrier, leading to stressed and dry skin as the surface cells are no longer able to maintain internal water. But worse than this, every time our cells replicate the telomeres shorten. Telomeres are protective caps on the end of chromosomes, with each cell division telomeres get shorter until they are no longer able to replicate and it's this process that is part of cellular ageing. By increasing skin cell turnover we are actually speeding up the ageing process of the skin.

So that's what Retinol does, but what it is.

Retinol, is a derivative of vitamin A. Retinoids is the general term for all the various vitamin A derivatives including retinal and trans-retinoic acid (tretinoin), which is a prescription only retinoid used in the treatment of acne.

Retinol is almost always synthesised in a lab from acetone, yes the powerful solvent in nail polish remover and isobutene from the petrochemical industry, which is used as a fuel, and an aerosol propellant. This makes retinol cheap and easy to mass produce, but with very serious questions for both sustainability and long term skin health.

Is there a natural and sustainable alternative that actually benefits the skin?

Well say hello to Rosehip Oil

Rosehip oil is a beautiful orange hued oil produced from the seeds and pulp of the fruits left behind after roses have bloomed. Packed with skin-loving nutrients, it’s rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins E and C (super antioxidants that fight free radical damage). It also contains beta-carotene (also known as Provitamin A) and tran-retinoic acid making it a natural retinol alternative.

Unlike retinol, rosehip oil is gentle on the skin and can be used by all skin types, including those with sensitive skin. It's hydrating, nourishing, and can help to improve skin texture and tone.

Benefits of Rosehip Oil

• Promotes cell regeneration: with natural vitamin A. Beta-carotene also provides mild protection from UV damage and can reduce hyperpigmentation.
• Can support acne: with natural trans-retinoid acid
• Supports collagen production: vitamin A and C are vital for collagen synthesis
• Antioxidant protection: vitamins A, C and E and polyphenols, neutralise free radicals, preventing collagen from being broken down.
• Improves elasticity: inhibits enzymes such as MMP-1 which is responsible for collagen and elastin breakdown in the skin.
• Reduces fine lines and wrinkles: supports skin structure improving texture and tone, the essential fatty acids such as linoleic and alpha-linoleic promote production of fibroblasts, the cells which produce collagen and elastin
• Hydrating and nourishing: Improves skin barrier function which prevents trans epidermal water loss keeping skin moisturised and hydrated.

In Conclusion

The levels of beta-carotene and trans-retinoic acid in rosehip oil is not as concentrated as that of retinol in skincare products, so Rosehip Oil technically isn't a direct substitute. However this doesn't mean that rosehip oil can't offer similar benefits. As a natural alternative the combination of essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants can help to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and boost collagen production, much like retinol, but in a natural gentler more skin loving way, without the need for unsustainable, harsh ingredients from the petrochemical industry.

Rosehip fruit and seed oils feature in Vitality Serum, Clarity Serum  and Tranquility Balm. Rosehip fruit oil can also be found in Purity Cleanser, Enchanted Garden Essence and Wild Meadow Essence.