Whole Plant, Whole Food Skincare

I’ve been a holistic facialist for nearly 20 years, I’ve always worked with natural skincare brands to avoid the petrochemical and synthetic ingredients that research is showing can accelerate ageing and contribute to many of the dermatology problems that are on the increase. Not to mention the impact on the environment.

When I first began to dream of creating Lusan I knew I wanted to go further than just ‘natural’ or ‘organic’, I wanted ingredient that benefited skin on a deep cellular level, no fillers, no surfactants, no emulsifiers, nothing that is there just to hold the formula together or create a certain texture, as these ingredients are often detrimental to the skin.

As people begin to consider what is actually in their skincare more and more are turning to ‘natural' products, seeking out formulations without synthetic chemicals that disrupt skin barrier, can cause irritation, inflammation, disrupt hormones or cause environmental damage.

This often means people choosing ‘botanical’ skincare with descriptions of ‘plant based’ or ‘plant derived’ ingredients.

Lusan Skincare does not contain ‘plant derived’ ingredient and neither is it just 'plant based’! Instead it is carefully crafted with only plant ingredient using Whole Plants, this means utilising the entire plant, including its leaves, stems, flowers, and roots, to create potent whole plant extracts that offer a wide range of benefits for the skin.

When the whole-plant method is not used the extractions or derivatives of a plant, usually referred to as ‘natural’ are actually manipulated, over processed, and often extracted with chemical solvents, creating isolated extracts, that have lost their natural potency and vitality, leaving lifeless ingredients that then require the addition of lab processed actives.

Isolated plant extracts contain only specific components of the plant, in contrast, whole plant infusions capture the full spectrum of phytonutrients, antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and other beneficial compounds present in the plant. All of these ‘phytochemicals’ work synergistically with one another, supporting and increasing one another’s potency. Isolating and utilising only certain compounds defeat the purpose and benefit of using plants.

Formulating with whole plants is laborious, expensive, and complex and not something that can be done on a mass scale.

Once the harvested plants arrive in my apothecary they are prepared for the next step. Whole plant skincare uses infusions, which gently steep the entire plant in a liquid, preserving its natural integrity, they will never go into a synthetic chemical solvent, nor be chemically extracted. Whole plant preparations often take 2 months or more to infuse. I never use synthetic counterparts to take the place of what a plant can achieve. For example, why add chemically produced hyaluronic acid when the Marshmallow plant is nature's own HA.

A Nutritionists approach to skincare.

As a nutritionist the concept of ultra processed food and the damage it does to our heath is something I talk about often. It’s something people are becoming much more aware of, but what about ultra processed skincare?

I wanted to create Whole Food Skincare as opposed to the ultra processed skincare that’s generally available, preparations that would nourish the skin in the same way as whole foods nourish our body (and our skin). This is why I formulate with whole plants, not over processed, isolated or derived-from ingredients, nor ingredient there only to create texture, bind ingredients together or preservatives that can have a detrimental impact on the skin microbiome and therefore the integrity of the skin barrier function.

My unique approach, has meant I have kept oil ingredients and water ingredients separate. By doing this I have done away with the need for emulsifiers (these bind oils and water together) and dramatically reduced the requirement for preservatives. Only two products require preservatives and I’ve used a novel lactobacillus ferment which while preventing the growth of undesirable molds, yeast, bacteria etc, supports the microbiome of the skin and in addition actually adds to the moisturising ability of the product.

But that isn’t the only reason. Creams are formulated with oils and water (and the necessary ingredients to bind them). However it’s the oils that are the powerhouses providing the necessary moisture, minimising TEWL (trans epidermal water loss), supporting cell walls and skin barrier. A cream generally only contains about 10-20% of oils and around 70-80% water, yep that free stuff that comes out your tap!

The lipids in oils are able to penetrate through the epidermis to the lower levels of the dermis something they can’t do when they’ve been manipulated into a cream as the molecules are too large. This means the fatty acids essential for maintaining skins structure, reducing inflammation, supporting barrier function, improving hydration and regulating oil production are much more effective when NOT presented in a cream.

Our skin requires both oil soluble nutrients and water soluble nutrients. Water soluble vitamins such as s vitamin C, B vitamins, polyphenols and minerals including zinc and magnesium can not be supplied in oil only skincare products.

Water free skincare brands have gained interest in recent years, being water-free means they don’t require preservatives, but it also means the skin is missing out on those important water soluble nutrients. This is where Lusan Essences come in. Made with steam distilled plant hydrosols and traditional herbal tinctures and glycerites, not only do they provide hydration but they also feed the skin with the water soluble nutrients found in the plants they contain. And the Lactobacillus ferment preservative supports the health of the skin microbiome and research shows that it actually increases the moisturisation of the skin by up to 24%.

Whole Plant Skincare Offers So Many Benefits

Synergistic Effects: Whole plant infusions harness the synergistic effects of multiple plant compounds working together in harmony. By retaining the natural balance of the plant's constituents, they offer enhanced efficacy and superior results compared to isolated extracts.

Full Spectrum of Nutrients: Whole plant infusions contain a rich array of nutrients, including vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, flavonoids, carotenoids and fatty acids, which nourish and replenish the skin. These nutrients work synergistically to promote skin health and vitality, providing comprehensive care for all skin types.

Potent Antioxidant Protection: Whole plant infusions are rich in antioxidants, which help neutralise free radicals protecting the skin from oxidative damage. By defending against environmental stressors like pollution, UV radiation, and blue light, they help prevent premature ageing.

Anti-inflammatory Properties: Many whole plant infusions exhibit anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe and calm irritated or inflamed skin. By reducing redness, swelling, and discomfort, they promote more balanced and healthy skin, slowing the signs of ageing and making them ideal for sensitive or reactive skin types.

Gentle and Non-irritating: Isolated plant extracts can be very concentrated which can be harsh or irritating to the skin, while whole plant infusions are generally well-tolerated and gentle, making them suitable for all skin types, including sensitive or delicate skin.

Environmental Sustainability: Utilising the entire plant in skincare formulations promotes sustainability and minimises waste. By maximising the use of plant resources, whole plant infusions support eco-friendly practices and contribute to a more sustainable skincare industry.

Whole plant infusions offer a superior approach to skincare, harnessing the holistic power of nature to nourish, protect, and rejuvenate the skin.